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A traveller reading in a riad courtyard with orange trees

Travel

Marrakech in the slow lane

An arched courtyard with a reflecting pool
Water at the centre of the plan.
A map, notebook and camera on a table
Plans, loosely held.

Morocco

Behind the noise of the medina, courtyards invite a different pace of travel.

Muslim Edit6 min read

Marrakech has a reputation for intensity: the crowds, the scooters, the calls of traders in narrow lanes. It is all true, and part of its energy.

But step through a plain wooden door and the city changes. Many traditional houses are built around interior courtyards — orange trees, tiled fountains, rooms opening onto shade rather than street.

Slow travellers use these spaces as a base, venturing out in the cool morning and returning for the heat of the afternoon. It is a rhythm the architecture seems designed to encourage.

The approach rewards attention: noticing the tilework, learning the names of neighbourhood bakeries, returning to the same café long enough to be recognised.

“The best rooms in the city are the ones that turn their back on it.”

A view of steppe and mountains from a train window
The journey is also the destination.